Backpacking the Minong Ridge Trail

We left Houston before sunrise, flying north to Minneapolis with backpacks ready for the trail. After a quick stop at REI for a few final pieces of gear, the drive began—miles of highway giving way to the rugged beauty of Minnesota’s North Shore, with Lake Superior never far from view.

The drive hugged Lake Superior most of the way, with pull-offs tempting us every few miles. We stopped at Split Rock Lighthouse, standing sharp against the blues of the lake and the grays of a building summer sky. By evening, we pulled into Grand Portage Lodge & Casino—our last bit of civilization before the real adventure began.

The next morning, the Sea Hunter III carried us out across Lake Superior, the horizon nothing but water in every direction. After an hour and a half, Isle Royale’s rugged outline rose from the lake, and it already felt like we’d left the rest of the world behind. At Windigo Visitor Center, we checked in before setting up at Washington Creek, a quiet site tucked near the back of the group camp area. That evening was all about trail talk—mapping out the next day’s hike over cold beer and hot dogs, swapping stories with hikers from all over the country.

From there, the trip truly began. A smaller boat dropped us at McCargoe Cove, our starting point for the Minong Ridge Trail. Before settling in, we hiked to the old Minong Mine, where traces of Isle Royale’s copper history still linger in the rock and earth. We were lucky to snag a shelter for the night, its wooden walls etched and marked with remnants from past travelers who had passed through before us. Outside, the cove was glass—water catching every last bit of sunset until the light finally slipped away.

The days that followed were a rhythm of trail and camp. Ridge walks with miles of open sky. Rocky harbors where Superior’s waves rolled in and out. Camps like Todd Harbor and Little Todd Harbor, each with its own mood—one wide open and wind-touched, the other quiet and tucked away. Evenings were for cooking over small stoves, rinsing off in freezing water, and watching the lake go still.

We turned inland toward North Lake Desor, tackling what’s considered the most challenging stretch of the primitive trail—about 5.7 miles of steep climbs, uneven footing, and ridgetop views that made every step worth it. The shoreline gave way to forest, wetlands, and calm inland water. The lake sat quiet and still, reflecting the last light of day, and the night that followed was star-heavy and silent—a peaceful pause before the long push ahead.

At 3:45 a.m., we broke camp and began our final 12.6-mile trek to Washington Creek, moving on tired legs with food bags far lighter than when we started. Seeing the harbor again felt like closing a loop. We’d crossed the island, carried everything we needed, and lived out of our packs for days.

The ferry back to Grand Portage felt different—slower, like we didn’t really want to leave. As we passed the Rock of Ages Lighthouse, we listened to stories of its history and the role it played in guiding ships through the often-treacherous waters of Lake Superior. Soon the mainland came back into view, and the road carried us west to International Falls, where the focus shifted from trail to water at Voyageurs National Park—a landscape of big lakes, endless shoreline, and a history of paddlers moving goods through this wild country long before we arrived.

From there, we headed south to Minneapolis for some downtime at the Mall of America, wandering city streets, finding good coffee, and enjoying one last night before heading home. The packs were lighter, but the cameras were full—ridge-line views, rocky shores, quiet camps, and the best kind of tired that only comes from walking through a place like Isle Royale.